Damascus Drum Cafe

Musaharati is the charm of Ramadan

By Hummam Sheikh Ali

DAMASCUS, Aug. 15 (Xinhua) -- Banging a small drum and chanting a rhyming song learnt by heart while walking through Damascus' old alleys, Abu Rabah said his daily pre-dawn walk is one of Ramadan's charms.

The Musaharati, or public waker, rouses Muslims in his neighborhood in the old Damascus city during the holy month of Ramadan to take their meals before starting the fasting.

"My duty during the holy month of Ramadan is to wake people up in the old city of Damascus for prayers and Sohour meal," he said.

The Musaharati's job starts an hour ahead of the day break when the Muslims start a new fast with the sunrise.

"Wake up Abu Mohammad," Abu Rabah shouted. He is used to calling each of the sleeping residents by his name and doesn't hesitate even to knock at each door to make sure that they have waken up and would not miss the Sohour, or pre-dawn meal. He said he has gotten familiar with the name of every household of the neighborhood.

Some of the residents run out to tip him or offer him some sweets or food, showing their gratitude to him. Others will wait until the end of the month to tip him. Women hang out of windows to see him and children rush out dancing to the beats of his drum and even imitating what they hear of the old Damascene words. He doesn't even mind to let them thump out the drum the way he is doing.

After they took the pre-dawn meal, most men in beards and women in drab robes headed to the mosque for dawn prayers.

Some others pray at home and read verses from Muslims' holy Quran while waiting for the blast of a canon or the start of the dawn prayer that allows them to start their fast.

During Ramadan, the faithful are supposed to abstain from food, drink, smoking and sex in a dawn-to-dusk period meant to test their faith and discipline.

People throng to markets, especially al-Midan popular market in downtown Damascus to buy various food stuff before the sunset meal. They feverishly rush to buy sweetmeats and Ramadan's favorite licorice drinks after a long day of fasting in the searing heat of August.

One of Ramadan's lovable customs is the tradition of specially prepared Ramadan sweets and pastries that help create a festive mood around the iftar table, such as the Kunafa, a shredded, sweetened phyllo dough, and katayef, kind of like a fried sweet pancake.

For many, the job of Musaharati is one of Ramadan's favorable and even indispensable rituals. It's an ancient tradition that dates back to hundreds of years ago. In recent years, this tradition has dwindled in most upscale neighborhoods and is confined to poor and popular alleys with volunteers doing this job, which they, and others, regard as a virtue.

Damascus Drum Cafe, Hawick

There are lots of options for vegetarians on the menu, such as the mezes. You can pick three for £4.95. I chose hummus, roast tomatoes and baba ganoush with pitta bread. Other possible choices include pasta arrabiata, vegetarian burger, filled bagels and soup. The homemade cakes are irresistible and the coffee is excellent. A good lunch with coffee and cake cost us under £18. Highly recommended!

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